NoHo · $$$ · Bar · American restaurant
The Wren is the kind of place that feels like it was designed for exactly this kind of night — dark wood, exposed brick, and a menu that punches well above pub weight. Order the steak frites (yes, they have it) and a round of whatever's on draft, and let the rustic, candlelit room do the rest. It's lively without being loud, which at 10pm is basically a superpower.